Introduction
Few skincare ingredients are as widely discussed in exfoliation as glycolic acid.
It is often associated with smoother skin, brighter tone, and improved texture. But beyond these visible effects, glycolic acid works through specific mechanisms that influence how the skin renews itself.
Understanding how it works, and how concentration affects its behavior, helps explain why it is used across a wide range of skincare formulations.
What Is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is part of a group of ingredients known as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
It is derived from sugar sources and is known for having the smallest molecular size among AHAs, which allows it to penetrate the skin more easily.
In the skin, glycolic acid works primarily by influencing how skin cells shed and renew.
Instead of forcing exfoliation, it helps loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more evenly.
How Glycolic Acid Works on the Skin
The outermost layer of the skin naturally sheds dead cells as part of its renewal cycle.
However, this process can slow down over time or become uneven due to environmental stress or buildup.
Glycolic acid helps regulate this process by:
• breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells
• supporting more uniform shedding
• encouraging smoother skin texture
This process is often referred to as chemical exfoliation.
Research has shown that AHAs like glycolic acid can promote epidermal renewal and improve skin texture over time.
Source:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8687717/
Glycolic Acid and Skin Texture
One of the most noticeable effects of glycolic acid is on skin texture.
By helping remove accumulated dead skin cells, it allows the skin surface to become smoother and more even.
Over time, this can lead to:
• improved skin clarity
• reduced roughness
• more refined-looking pores
This is why glycolic acid is commonly used in formulations designed for dull or uneven skin.
Glycolic Acid and Uneven Skin Tone
Glycolic acid also plays a role in improving uneven skin tone.
When dead skin cells accumulate unevenly, they can make the skin appear patchy or dull.
By promoting more consistent exfoliation, glycolic acid helps:
• improve overall brightness
• support a more even-looking complexion
• gradually reduce the appearance of superficial pigmentation
Some studies suggest that AHAs can also enhance the penetration of other active ingredients, which may further support skin tone improvement.
Source:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9659120/
Glycolic Acid and Skin Renewal
Skin renewal is a continuous process, but it slows down with time.
Glycolic acid supports this process by encouraging controlled exfoliation, which helps maintain a more regular turnover of skin cells.
This can contribute to:
• improved skin smoothness
• fresher-looking skin
• better responsiveness to other skincare ingredients
However, the key word here is controlled.
Excessive or high-strength use can disrupt the skin barrier instead of supporting it.
Understanding Glycolic Acid Percentages
One of the most important aspects of glycolic acid is concentration.
The way it behaves on the skin changes significantly depending on the percentage used.
Low concentrations (around 2%–5%)
• mild exfoliation
• suitable for regular use
• helps maintain skin smoothness and clarity
These levels are often used in daily-use formulations.
Moderate concentrations (5%–10%)
• more noticeable exfoliation
• helps improve texture and tone
• may not be suitable for daily use
Higher concentrations (10%–20% and above)
• stronger exfoliation
• typically used in clinical or supervised settings
• higher risk of irritation if not used carefully
Professional treatments may go even higher, but these are not intended for regular at-home use.
Glycolic Acid and the Skin Barrier
While glycolic acid can support renewal, its effect on the skin barrier depends on how it is used.
At appropriate concentrations and frequency, it can help improve skin texture without significantly disrupting the barrier.
However, overuse or high concentrations can:
• increase sensitivity
• disrupt lipid balance
• increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
This is why glycolic acid is often paired with hydration and barrier-supporting ingredients.
Ingredients That Work Well With Glycolic Acid
To maintain balance, glycolic acid is often combined with ingredients that support hydration and barrier function.
These include:
- hyaluronic acid for hydration
- panthenol (provitamin B5) for soothing support
- niacinamide for barrier reinforcement
- humectants like glycerine
- algae, microalgae for their ability to support hydration and balance
How to Use Glycolic Acid Thoughtfully
Because glycolic acid influences skin renewal, how it is used matters.
Some general considerations:
- start with lower concentrations
- preferably use overnight
- avoid overuse
- support with hydration and barrier care
- use sun protection during the day
This helps maintain balance while allowing the skin to benefit from controlled exfoliation.
Where You May Find Glycolic Acid in Skincare
Glycolic acid is commonly used in formulations designed to improve skin texture, clarity, and tone.
In formulations developed by The Dewy Skin, glycolic acid is used alongside hydration-supporting ingredients and barrier-friendly components to help maintain balance while supporting renewal.
You can explore it here:
• Spot Correcting Face Serum
https://thedewyskin.com/products/spot-correcting-face-serum
Scientific References
Glycolic acid and epidermal renewal
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8687717/
Alpha hydroxy acids in dermatology
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9659120/
Skin barrier structure and TEWL
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12553851/
Marine algae bioactive compounds
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6266229/
Microalgae dermatological applications
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9409820/
Key Takeaways
• Glycolic acid is an AHA used for chemical exfoliation.
• It helps remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture.
• It can support more even skin tone over time.
• Its effects depend strongly on concentration.
• Lower percentages are suitable for regular use, while higher strengths require caution.
• Overuse can disrupt the skin barrier, making balanced formulation important.
• It is often combined with hydration and barrier-supporting ingredients.